ZX11 Turbo Install

[JDawgZX11D]

i think the reason it backfired was because it was so rich, gas was coming out of the exhaust and not burning up at all. That is just what I think. I think I got it with the new plugs. I am gonna roll it outside in the morning and just let it run for a while. It needs to burn off all the crap inside of it and all that good stuff.

[Gearhead119]

I remember you were running a 15psi (aprox.) fuel pump... what are you running for a fuel pressure regulator. Do you have anything showing what your fuel pressure is at idle(a guage?)? if not, it'll really help setting things up. most fpr's have a spot on them to thread them in. they are about $12 at most parts stores. here is how mine is mounted.


I started out at 1.5 psi as a base settings and it did the same thing yours did. dropped it to 1.0 psi and it would idle for about a minute before flooding out. it burned my eyes just to be aorund it like this. I then went to .5psi and everything was perfect. idles great (just as smooth as a NA) if not smoother. Sync'n will smooth things out even more... especially at idle!... after the sync you'll probably need to reset all the air screws again.

[JDawgZX11D]

Hey rz, I want to do the manual timing retard. For eight psi, how much should I take off and what side of the key do I take it off of? That is the last thing I need to do to finish up. I got a small leak from the ti
ing cover so I have to go back in there anyway. Hit me back when you get a chance

[warren]

If memory serves me right you should take .004 off for every 1 degree of timming. If you were to want 6 degrees you would have to take .024 off of the left side of the knotch. check this thread out. It is for advancing the timming, but should help a lot. You just have to do the opposite to retard your timming. ALTERING IGNITION TIMING WITH YOUR STOCK ROTOR it is located in the (Bruce's cycle shop in the Engines-Engines,Transmission,Oil,Coolant,Ignition System ) section

[KWICK]

Figure the radius at the center of the locating pin on the crank.
Multiply times 2
Multiply times 3.141597
Divide by 360
That is the distance for one degree.

[JDawgZX11D]

I have no idea where to put the return line bung. I was told to put it on the panel that hold the fuel level unit. I just don't see the room on it to be honest? I thought about stealing the reserve bung and making my life easier? Not sure, not really comfortable welding on a gas tank to be honest... I am trying to simplify this as easily as I can, dont want to blow up my garage if at all possible. I know you are supposed to drain the gas before you weld on it, but there is always something left behind...

[KWICK]

You have to weld with water or CO2...just venting it won't do...as I found out with a tank that had been empty for a week an I used a bodyshop nail gun on it.

[JDawgZX11D]

I was just outside brainstorming a bit and I may end up stealing the reserve bung from the petcock to get the job done. I have never ever used the reserve side of my tank and hopefully never will. I just don't know where to weld the bung at, my fuel float unit is just to small to weld something onto and still have a functional gas guage.

[rxrated]

Originally Posted by JDawgZX11D

I have no idea where to put the return line bung. I was told to put it on the panel that hold the fuel level unit. I just don't see the room on it to be honest? I thought about stealing the reserve bung and making my life easier? Not sure, not really comfortable welding on a gas tank to be honest... I am trying to simplify this as easily as I can, dont want to blow up my garage if at all possible. I know you are supposed to drain the gas before you weld on it, but there is always something left behind...

Pingel makes a petcock with a positive off / on AND a return line built onto it ...

[Gearhead119]

I would suggest using the reserve side of the petcock.. ( zrx petcocks only have one but I just leave mine on prime all the time)... this gives you a full tank to ride with but i jsut keep an eye on the guage.

If you have a return type FPR your tank needs to have a return line back too it somewhere. It does make a difference where you put it. First and most importantly you have to install it where the line going to it has VERY VERY little restriction.... you want the line to be as straight as possible. Try to keep all bends to a minimum.. don't use any small or tight bend fittings.... use large line for the return... If there is any part of the return line with restriction you won't be able to turn the fuel pressure down far enough... for example the Mallory 4309 FPR is rated for use from 3PSI-30PSI (base setting). 3 psi is way too much for the float valves to hold but a properly installed return line allows you to turn it down to near 0psi. The adjuster screw is just about all the way out but they DO go that low. i welded a 1/4 npt bung coming straight out of the bottom of my tank .. right in front of my rear tank mount. this keeps my line bend free... with only a slight curve to get to my FPR. if you need to use a 90* fitting make sure it is a large radius bend one... nothing very abrupt... Also use the largest line you can.... every little bit helps

Another thing to mention is the rush of fuel returning to the tank also can cause the float for the guage to be inaccurate. My high pressure pump causes quite a stir inside my tank even when it's full. my fuel guage bounces a round a little especially below 1/2 tank. if you weld in a bung don't point it at the float. just my .02.

[Gearhead119]

oh.. if your gonna weld on the tank... drain the gas... flush it with water a few times... fill it completely ... then drain it again.. try using some dawn dishsoap in there too... or anything that cuts grease... blow it out a few time... keep flushing it until you have NO gas smell in it.... then weld away. double check for leaks when finished by squirting down the weld while blowing air in the tank... it'll bubble if there are any pin holes. just welded up a chopper tank for a guy and I had to weld it about 5 times just to get all the pin holes sealed.... always check..... gas leaks suck!!

[JDawgZX11D]

I think using the reserve is probably better off. I am a good welder and all, just don't like welding gas tanks. Just not sure where I am going to steal the line from, from the bottom where it comes out of the tank or the petcock. If I steal it from the bottom it is an eight inch run, up front and it's a two foot run. Ifbi stealbut from the bottom it will be a pain to get the tank off. But it would probably be the best place to steal from I think. I really don't want to weld on my tank, I have so much artwork on it and I am afraid to damage the paint. It sounds pussy and all. But I spent a week airbrushing it and don't want to re-do it.

[Gearhead119]

welding the tank is one of the PITA things that alot of turbo bikes have. Not saying you can't get away with not welding. It is worth a shot though.... if you can't get the base setting down far enough you can always change the line later. When i welded mine... i only had to scuff a 2" circle on the bottom and just hit it with some paint when done..... no damage anywhere else. i figured I can live with that if i get 100bhp in return I don't take my gas tank off unless i have to anymore because it IS a pain. some guys have tried puting in quick disconnects fitting but it seemed they had too much restriction too. if you do have to remove it... the electric fuel pump makes draining the tank about a 3 minute job if it's full ... pretty simple too.

[JDawgZX11D]

I guess I could try it. I am going to post a pic of the bottom of my tank tonight when I get off of work. If someone could point to a good spot it weld I will give it a shot. Should I get a bung? Or just weld a fitting to the tank? I saw some 1/8 and 1/4 npt bungs on eBay, should I pick up some of thoose and use brass? That is the main reason why I was going to use the reserve, or thought about it. There is already a bung on it I can use. Decisions desicions. I still have not got my pump in yet. I thought I had a bad fuel pump relay. It turns out that it only turns on when it senses tach movement. So when you turn the key on it won't start pumping unroll you push the start button. Freaked me out. First the starter solonoid and then that. I had a bad weekend. I will say this. My three year old is gaga for my motorcycle, I fired it up for him and he made the loudest vroom vroom noise I have ever heard. I am divorced and my ex rarley let's me see my kids so when I do get them, all the three year old wants to do is push the loud buttons on my bike. He pointed out the turbo andcalled it a turbo. About made me cry.

[Gearhead119]

If it where me I would weld in a bung... just from experience... it's way easier to weld and make it look nice.. .plus it you decide to change things or decide it isn't going to work you can just insert a plug fitting and not worry about it. when you weld the fittings in you always have to put a rubber plug or cap over it.... and when it comes to getting rid of it... you basically have to cut it out and weld the whole shut... bungs give you a little wiggle room to change things. As far as a place to put it..... It kinda depends on where your regulator is mounted... you just need to keep the line as unrestricted as possible.

[JDawgZX11D]

I had less desicions to make when I was going through my divorce. The moral of the story is I need a return line, bottom line. I am just gonna stare at my tank tonight and try to figure something out I guess. It has to be there..

[JDawgZX11D]

Originally Posted by Gearhead119

I remember you were running a 15psi (aprox.) fuel pump... what are you running for a fuel pressure regulator. Do you have anything showing what your fuel pressure is at idle(a guage?)? if not, it'll really help setting things up. most fpr's have a spot on them to thread them in. they are about $12 at most parts stores. here is how mine is mounted.


I started out at 1.5 psi as a base settings and it did the same thing yours did. dropped it to 1.0 psi and it would idle for about a minute before flooding out. it burned my eyes just to be aorund it like this. I then went to .5psi and everything was perfect. idles great (just as smooth as a NA) if not smoother. Sync'n will smooth things out even more... especially at idle!... after the sync you'll probably need to reset all the air screws again.

That is way more room that I have. I am working with an area of about 8 inches tall, 11 inches long and about three inches deep...

[Gearhead119]

Originally Posted by JDawgZX11D

I had less desicions to make when I was going through my divorce. The moral of the story is I need a return line, bottom line. I am just gonna stare at my tank tonight and try to figure something out I guess. It has to be there..

I guess you never actually said that you had a return type fuel pressure regulator... there are fpr's that are not a return type. kinda a constant flow type ... they are adjustable but once the base pressure is reached on the carb side the excess isn't returned to the tank.. it just floods out. do you have any info on your fpr? brand? model? maybe a picture?

Where is your pump mounted? fpr mounted?

[JDawgZX11D]

I beleive it is a jdm return style fpr with boost reference. I am not liking it already am bidding on a 4309 as we speak. I have a pro comp 14 psi fuel pump hopefully being delivered this week. On my zx11 the only room I have to put this stuff is on the frame rail where the stock pump was located. If my fpr does not increase pressure it's going in the garbage. I am bidding in the 4309 right now

[1slomofo]

Hey, if you can live without a fuel gage, then you can just remove the whole fuel sending unit and replace it with a flat plate (.125 thick should work) with a fitting installed in it. Thats a way to avoid welding on your tank if it is setup on the ZX11 the way it is on the ZRX.

[Bob 37]

Originally Posted by 1slomofo

Hey, if you can live without a fuel gage, then you can just remove the whole fuel sending unit and replace it with a flat plate (.125 thick should work) with a fitting installed in it. Thats a way to avoid welding on your tank if it is setup on the ZX11 the way it is on the ZRX.

That's how mine will be done. But at this time, I'm not planning on stock gauges.

[JDawgZX11D]

Sorry I have been out of the loop for a few.... Moving and stuff. I think I am going to run the reserve nipple for right now. I have a spare gas tank I am going to weld up and repaint to match my bike. This tank has been empty for about two years and I am not afraid to weld on that. I think my running problem is this. I have the stock pump on there right now trying to get it tuned at idle so i can pull up to a light and have it not die on me. I think the pressure is to high, honestly, thats my thought. The second I kill the petcock she will hold an idle for a few. I need to rev it at it's sweets spot to make sure it stays running. Once I get my real pump, probably monday(lame) I can get the last part put together and really start to play with it. I think it is just flooding out at idle. I talked to terry keizer on tuesday, he thinks the fuel pressure is WAY to high. He asked me where my A/F screws were at, I told him 2 turns, he said that they usually set them at 2.5 turns. I am kind of on hold until that friggin pump gets here... oh well..

[JDawgZX11D]

[RK-REX]

Sounds nice. Pretty stealthly too.

[JDawgZX11D]

So I got the fuel system installed. Now I am pouring gas out of the turbo. I got it turned down as far as it will go and I still can not get it to start, at all. I was pulling the plugs out to clean them and one of my wires seperated from the boot. Does anyone know how to fix this, or am I on the hook for a coil pack assembly to?

[Gearhead119]

the cap should have a "wood screw" barb inside it.. they will rethread back onto the wire.. (usually). You might have to trim off 1/4" of the wire to get a good bite in the wire. it helps to spray a little silicone spray on the two also... lots easier to get together. As far as the fueling problem..... I'd say she is flooding I'd look at the float valves first... make sure nothing foreign has made it's way under the needles. Have you tried just hooking a gas jug up to the carbs ? get rid of any forced fuel pressure and see if it still leaks gas out.... you might have to reset the float levels .. Not sure exactly where??.. but usually higher than you normally would by a few mm. (i.e. less fuel in bowls) I believe that under fuel pressure the tiny "button" on the end of the float valve is actually depressed when running.... Also the added air pressure in the bowls helps keep everything even.

I looked at the JDM fpr's when i was gathering parts and some of them are 1:6 ratio increase... that means with 1psi base setting... 1psi boost=6psi fuel... 2psi boost=12psi fuel... etc... these are for EFI cars that use injectors to time intake spray.... these will not work with our carbs. check that your is a 1:1 ratio

[JDawgZX11D]

I think you are right about my regulator. I just bought a 4309 this morning. I can't get a solid reading off my guage. I should have the new fpr Tuesday. Hopefully that cures it. When I took it out at half throttle it flooded and died on me. I put my 160 jets back in I and reved it up and it's not flooding anymore. I hope to have better news tuesday

[JDawgZX11D]

I talked to kawiturbo. He told me to switch out to zx9 coil packs. So I got the ordered up today.

[JDawgZX11D]

that fuel pump is so LOUD!!! I can barley hear my exhaust over the pump.

[JDawgZX11D]

Have not been on in a while.. I have been having serious running issues with it. It was spitting raw fuel out of the turbo on start up, killing my pants.. After I get it warmed up I would take it out for a spin and it would fall on it's face and flood out. I took out my 180 jets and moved the clip to four down and it seemed to help, but still spit out fuel on start up. I talked to Terry Keizer and a buch of other cats.. I was talking to KawTurbo last night(Danny D) and he was telling me to check the floats. I pulled the carbs off ready to rebuild them. I noticed that floats on carb 1 & 2 were all the way up in the carb body, causing the carb to flood like a running toilet.. I reset all the floats to 11mm, the service manual said 13mm +/- 2mm, Danny told me to make it as low as possible. So I did. Once I saw the floats where they were I put my 180 jets back in it and took it for a ride. It was a little choppy at first. Because of the crappy roads in chicago I could not get into the boost at all, salt and sand on the roads. I got it to 1lb of boost and the back tire started to spin underneath me, whoa nelly.. I think most of my problems I have been having was due to those friggin floats... Other than that, it seems to be running good now. I am trying to find a harness on ebay for the ZX9 coil stick conversion. I bought one and it had all kinds of broken wires on the plug ends. I got the coil sticks and harness for 15.00 delivered so there was not much to complain about... I am just looking for another sweet deal is all. I heard it runs so much better with the coil sticks. Not to mention looks a lot cleaner with the tank off, and no more broken wires. I can't thank you cats enough for all the support you have given me throughout this project of mine!!!!!!!!!!!